Lleida, 24th March - 4th April 2011.

Rock climbing in the Lleida region of Spain. staying in farmhouse self-catering accommodation near Camarasa. A wide variety of excellent climbing venues both single and multi pitch bolted routes within 20 minutes to 1 hour travelling time.

Lleida is actually a town in a flat and rather boring area of Spain east of Barcelona, but it gives its name to the province spreading north into the foothills of the Pyrenees which is anything but flat and boring. The nearest town of any size is Balaguer. Left is Casa rural where we stayed. It was a couple of Kim from the main C-13 road south of Camarasa and was a fine old farmhouse with a large open dining kitchen, part of a working farm rearing sheep and chickens. There was also an open log fire which, despite the warm weather we just had to light every evening.

The closest crags were Sant Lorenç de Montgal and Camarasa, about 15 to 20 minutes driving time.

Click on any image to enlarge.

Left to right. Graham Parkes on Juego Sucio 6c+, Santa Ana, Dick's back after falling off Dones per Terra 6a+, Gordon's finger after falling off Fals Advocat 6c and dinner at Casa rural with Pod and Angels. So, a good start to the holiday on day one! Dick's back injury was superficial and due to toppling backwards off a ledge only feet from the lower off. Gordon's finger injury was more serious however, the result of slipping off with one finger in a sharp edged pocket. The damage required stitching at the local clinic and he was strictly banned from any more climbing until it was healed. Tragic start to his climbing holiday and after a few days Gordon took an early flight home.

Decent climbing shots are almost impossible to take on a casual basis but here are a few of the less bad ones, all featuring Dick Turnbull. Left to right the very sharp Plat Combinat 6a, Camarasa, New Manguis 6a+ Cubells, Michumi 6a+ Camerasa and the fine but unkindly named Tensio Anal 6b.

Dick, John and myself volunteered to transport Gordon to Barcelona airport, which gave us the opportunity to change the main driver from Gordon to Dick at the car hire office, and to explore Barcelona. We left the car at the car hire office, took the bus to the airport and then another bus into the centre of Barcelona. Easy! Here are a few pictures.

 

Left to right, the Ramblas, Tapas bar, Sagrada Familia and inside la Sagrada Familia. Will it ever be completed?

Ten Euros 50 for pensioners.

Mike and Graham made the 2 hour journey to visit Riglos, a stunning area of conglomerate towers where they climbed the infamous La Fiesta de los Biceps, 7a, a multipitch monster which apparently had Graham's eyes out on stalks. John and Dick also climbed La Directa on Sant Lorenç de Montgal, also a multipitch conglomerate route but at a more reasonable 6b which they rated highly. Along with Dick and John we visited the gorge of Terradets and climbed Smoking, a, undergraded multipitch route sporting widely spaced old bolts. Fortunately we had a rain shower and we abseiled off.

One day we visited Vilanova de Meià and Mike and Graham took me climbing up a 7 pitch monster called El Señor de los Bordillos, graded 6c+ with an obligatoir of 6b. What! The first pitch was graded V+ but lets call it 6b and you can get a flavour of the route. Brilliant climbing and well led by Mike but too hard for pensioners. Left to right pitch 1 with the main barrier of overhangs (6c+) above. Mike ran P1 P2 together, next, on the overhangs, P4 possibly and P5 closely observed by a Griffon vulture, next, me in extremis and last Phew! Graham finishes the last pitch of 6b (and the rest).

Left to right. Sunrise over the Pyrenees, Graham barbecue boy, barbecue, Camarasa and Mallow.

chris.jackson@zen.co.uk

 

Team members were: Mike Waters, Graham Parkes, Gordon MacNair, John Jones, Dick Turnbull, Chris Jackson.